The Journal · Guide
Paris, beyond the hotel
Eight addresses from the Palais-Royal to the Saint-Ouen market: an eighteenth-century dining room, a cabinet of curiosities and the bistro where the steak au poivre hasn’t changed.
Foto: Le Grand Véfour · legrandvefour.com 01 · Classic restaurant · Palais-Royal, 1er
Le Grand Véfour
Beneath the Palais-Royal arcades, this eighteenth-century dining room reopened in 2026 with Bruno Doucet in the kitchen and its historic room restored.
Tip · Book two to three weeks ahead and ask for a table in the historic room. Have an apéritif in the Palais-Royal garden first.
17 rue de Beaujolais, 75001 París
Official site
Foto: Arpège · alain-passard.com 02 · Chef’s restaurant · 7e
Arpège
Three Michelin stars and a kitchen built on what arrives from Alain Passard’s three gardens. The beechwood-smoked potatoes explain why so many chefs come here to learn.
Tip · Weekdays only. Lunch is the way to see it: the same cooking, natural light and the Musée Rodin two streets away.
84 rue de Varenne, 75007 París
Official site
Foto: Bistrot Paul Bert · Guía Michelin 03 · Bistro · 11e
Bistrot Paul Bert
The bistro Parisians name when you ask for a real one: chalkboard, tiled floor, career waiters. The steak au poivre with frites and the tarte Tatin need no explanation.
Tip · Open Tuesday to Saturday; book by phone about a week ahead. Ask about the beef cut for two.
18 rue Paul Bert, 75011 París
Official site
Foto: Deyrolle · deyrolle.com 04 · Shop · Saint-Germain, 7e
Deyrolle
Since 1831, a cabinet of curiosities on the first floor of rue du Bac: bears, birds and drawers of butterflies, all for sale. A framed insect is the most Parisian souvenir we know.
Tip · Monday to Saturday, 10am to 7pm. Go early to have the entomology room nearly to yourself; they ship internationally.
46 rue du Bac, 75007 París
Official site
Foto: Officine Universelle Buly · buly1803.com 05 · Apothecary · Saint-Germain-des-Prés, 6e
Officine Universelle Buly
An apothecary with a marble counter and walnut cabinets: oils, rice powders, brushes and candles in packaging from another century. They hand-letter your name on the label in calligraphy.
Tip · Go to the original rue Bonaparte shop and ask for calligraphy on gifts; allow time, as a line forms.
6 rue Bonaparte, 75006 París
Official site
Foto: Little Red Door · lrdparis.com 06 · Bar · Haut-Marais, 3e
Little Red Door
An unmarked red door and, behind it, one of Europe’s most serious cocktail bars. Each drink on the current menu is built around one French farmer’s produce.
Tip · Open daily from 5pm. Arrive before 7pm for a seat.
60 rue Charlot, 75003 París
Official site
Foto: Jacques Genin · jacquesgenin.fr 07 · Chocolatier · Haut-Marais, 3e
Jacques Genin
Caramels, pâtes de fruits and ganaches from a craftsman who became a Paris reference. Pastries are assembled to order, so the puff pastry is still crisp.
Tip · Tuesday to Sunday, 11am to 7pm. Order the mille-feuille fresh and take a box of caramels home.
133 rue de Turenne, 75003 París
Official site
Foto: Marché Paul Bert Serpette · paulbert-serpette.com 08 · Antiques market · Saint-Ouen
Paul Bert Serpette
Some 350 dealers in the best-kept lanes of the flea market, from Greco-Roman fragments to Pierre Paulin armchairs. Decorators from around the world buy here.
Tip · Open Friday to Monday. Friday morning is for serious buyers; personal shoppers, tax refunds and shipping are available.
110 rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine
Official site
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